A Journey Through Time Hiking Tsankawi Pueblo

I’ve spent more than eighty years walking the land. The dust of deserts, the cool air of alpine valleys, and the sounds of rivers and streams running over rocks have been my companions. Life has been full of simple joys—ranching, farming, and countless days spent under the wide-open skies of the American Southwest. One place that’s etched deep into my heart is the land of the Tsankawi people, a place rich in history and shaped by hands and feet that once called it home.

The Tsankawi people were a part of the Ancestral Puebloan culture, whose story is written into the cliffs, mesas, and deep canyons of northern New Mexico. I’ve walked their land, stepped into the worn trails carved into the rock by countless footsteps, and stood in awe of the remnants of a world long gone yet so very alive in the landscape.

Today, I want to take you on a journey back in time to the Tsankawi pueblo, nestled within the Bandelier National Monument. It’s a place where history comes alive beneath your feet, where every step you take is a reminder of those who lived here centuries before, and where the breathtaking scenery of the Rio Grande Valley and surrounding mountains serve as a testament to the resilience of the land and the people who thrived upon it.

Tsankawi Pueblo: A Glimpse into the Past

Tsankawi is located on the northern edge of Bandelier National Monument, about 12 miles from Los Alamos and roughly an hour’s drive from Santa Fe. It’s a lesser-known site, but I’ve found that it often feels like you have the place to yourself—just you and the spirits of the past. There’s something sacred about walking those ancient trails, knowing the Tsankawi people called this land home long before Europeans set foot in the New World.

The Tsankawi people lived in a time long before modern technology and conveniences. They were a part of the Ancestral Puebloans who thrived in the Rio Grande Valley and surrounding regions. They built their homes in the cliffs, fashioning dwellings from the soft volcanic tuff rock that dominates the area. What remains of their pueblo is mostly ruins—crumbling walls, worn pathways, and the impressions of ancient hands in the rock—but the place is alive with history.

I remember the first time I visited Tsankawi. The trail winds up a narrow path, and you can see the remnants of the village clinging to the mesa top. It’s hard to imagine, but this place was once bustling with life—people going about their daily tasks, children playing, elders sharing stories around the fire. The Tsankawi pueblo was not a large settlement by modern standards, but it was home to a thriving community, well adapted to the landscape and the challenges of their environment.

What strikes you the most is the way the land and the people were one. Every corner of the mesa is touched by the hands of the Tsankawi people—their foot trails worn into the rock, the cavates (small cave-like rooms carved into the cliffs), and the stone tools and pottery fragments scattered across the site. It’s a reminder of the connection they had to the land, something I’ve always understood in my own life, working with the soil, water, and sky.

Foot Trails Worn into Rock

One of the most memorable aspects of visiting Tsankawi is walking along the ancient foot trails that have been worn into the soft tuff rock over centuries of use. These trails snake up and around the cliffs, offering stunning views of the surrounding valleys and mesas. If you close your eyes for a moment, you can almost hear the voices of the past—the soft shuffle of sandals on stone, the murmur of conversation as people went about their lives.

These trails are more than just paths; they are an indelible record of the daily life of the Tsankawi people. Every step you take on those worn grooves is a connection to the countless generations who walked this land before you. It’s humbling, knowing that you’re walking the same trails that carried people to their homes, to their fields, and perhaps to gather water or hunt game.

As someone who has spent a lifetime walking the land, I find these trails especially poignant. There’s a rhythm to the land, a pattern of movement that the Tsankawi people understood and embraced. They lived in harmony with their environment, something I’ve always strived to do in my own life, whether I’m working on my computer or hiking a mountain trail.

Bandelier National Monument: A Sanctuary of History and Nature

Tsankawi is part of the larger Bandelier National Monument, a place that I could visit time and time again. It’s a sanctuary for those of us who love history, nature, and the quiet solitude that only the mountains and canyons can provide. Bandelier itself encompasses over 33,000 acres of rugged terrain, home to a wide variety of wildlife and plant species. But it’s the cultural history that truly sets it apart.

The main part of Bandelier includes the Frijoles Canyon, where you’ll find the remains of large pueblos like Tyuonyi, cliff dwellings, and kivas (ceremonial chambers). It’s an awe-inspiring place, but Tsankawi feels more intimate, more personal. There’s no paved road to the site, no visitor center, just a simple trail and the echoes of a world gone by.

What I love about Bandelier, and Tsankawi in particular, is the way the land and its history are preserved. It’s a place where you can feel the presence of the past in every rock and tree, where the silence is broken only by the wind and the call of birds. I’ve spent many a day exploring its trails, my camera in hand, trying to capture the essence of a place that seems to exist outside of time.

The Rio Grande and the Land of the Tsankawi People

The Tsankawi people, like other Ancestral Puebloans, were deeply connected to the Rio Grande. This great river flows through the heart of their homeland, providing water, food, and a lifeline that sustained their way of life. The Rio Grande is a force of nature, carving deep canyons and shaping the landscape in ways both subtle and profound.

From the Tsankawi site, you can see the Rio Grande Valley stretching out below, a reminder of the lifeblood that ran through this region. I’ve always felt a deep connection to rivers—the way they shape the land, the way they give life, and the way they flow through time, unchanged yet always changing. The Rio Grande is no different. It was here long before the Tsankawi people, and it remains, a silent witness to the passage of time.

As I walk the trails of Tsankawi, I often find myself thinking about the people who lived here—how they must have watched the seasons change, the river rise and fall, and the mountains shift with the light of the sun. It’s a connection I feel in my bones, that sense of belonging to the land, just as the Tsankawi people once did.

Visiting Tsankawi: When to Go and What to Expect

If you’re planning a visit to Tsankawi, there’s no better time than fall or spring. The weather is cooler, the skies are clear, and the landscape takes on a golden hue as the sun sets lower in the sky. In the spring, wildflowers dot the mesa, and the air is filled with the scent of sage and piñon. In the fall, the aspens in the nearby mountains turn a brilliant yellow, contrasting beautifully with the red and orange cliffs.

I recommend starting your visit early in the day to avoid the heat and to give yourself plenty of time to explore. The trail at Tsankawi is not long—just about 1.5 miles round trip—but it can be steep in places, and the footing on the worn rock can be tricky. Make sure to bring plenty of water, wear sturdy shoes, and take your time. This isn’t a place to rush through; it’s a place to savor.

The trail takes you past ancient petroglyphs carved into the rock, the remains of the pueblo, and, of course, those worn foot trails that lead you through the history of the land. You’ll also encounter cavates—small rooms carved into the cliffs that were once used as dwellings or storage areas. These cavates are a testament to the resourcefulness of the Tsankawi people, who made their homes in the rock itself.

And while you’re there, don’t forget to stop and take in the view. From the top of the mesa, you can see for miles in every direction—the Jemez Mountains to the west, Santa Fe in the foothills of the Sangre de Cristo Mountains to the east, and the Rio Grande Valley stretching out before you. It’s a view that never gets old, no matter how many times you’ve seen it.

The Tsankawi People: A Legacy Carved in Stone

The story of the Tsankawi people is a story of resilience, adaptation, and connection to the land. They lived in a world that was both beautiful and harsh, a world that demanded respect and understanding. And though their pueblo may now be in ruins, their legacy lives on in the land itself.

As I reflect on the Tsankawi people and their history, I can’t help but feel a kinship with them. Like them, I’ve spent my life hiking the land, learning its rhythms, and finding peace in its wide-open spaces. There’s a simplicity to it, a sense of belonging that comes from knowing you are a part of something much larger than yourself.

The Tsankawi people may be gone, but their spirit endures—in the foot trails worn into the rock, in the petroglyphs etched into the cliffs, and in the land.